Visitor's Guide To Old San Juan

Hey Folks-

Juni here!  You may or may not have noticed that it's been a while since I have posted.  Or Tommy has posted.  Zorra has seemed unusually quiet as well.  What's been going on?!?!?!
Wellllllllll, let's just say that we moved beyond the "Honeymoon" stage of ex-pat living and have entered Phase II (aka "I'm so homesick!") and have been dealing with a few challenges.  I don't want to go into the details but the long and short of it all is that we are LEAVING San Juan (yes, ANOTHER move) and heading to where we originally intended to be, Rincón.  Rincón  is on the West Coast of the island and is a surfer mecca with a large ex-pat community.

Like the states, the West Coast is definitely the "crunchier" area.  You have your beach side yoga spots, fresh squeezed juice joints and plenty of sea glass jewelry floating around.  The air is sweeter, the breeze a little more soothing and the desire to take deep breaths more instinctual.  Kind of like a Spanish speaking Hawaii, with the addition of Caribbean mosquitoes (my only complaint, but I'll deal).  

Yep, that's where this California girl belongs.  Believe it or not, my Philadelphian fiance is also more at home there.  Sometimes he even surprises me with his "Granola Boy"ishness.  

So it's back to Plan A.  

We found a very spacious, and very cheerful little spot on the top of a hill with a view of Pools beach.  We are beyond anxious to get there and settle in to the life that we feel we really intended to live when we decided to embark on this journey. The lower unit/carport are ours:

At this point, you may be asking yourself, "Am I reading the right post?  The subject line says this is a visitor's guide to Old San Juan. WTF?".  Have no fear, it's not you, it's totally me.  I just wanted to get the aforementioned news out the way before I set you up with all the spots to check out if/when you come to visit the Old City.
Don't get me wrong, Old San Juan is amazing in it's way.  It has gorgeous architecture and history unlike any where else I've been in this world.   We've met wonderful people, with kind hearts and artistic souls.  We're just over city life and frankly, can't hang with the party lifestyle that exists here on a live-in basis.  There is a strong indication we are rapidly approaching middle age.  Or are we there already?  OH boy.

So without further ado, I present to you my guide to Old San Juan.  Come enjoy all this beautiful city has to offer!

 Old San Juan is a walking town and parking is quite difficult.  If possible, don't drive when you are on this leg of your trip.  If you do drive, however, street parking can be found if you are patient and parallel parking doesn't spin you into an anxiety attack. Buy the insurance on your rental though, dinged bumpers are kind of guaranteed...If you have more money than patience, park in one of the lots---the cheapest one is near the bus depot across from Banco Popular.  I think it maxes out at $15/day.  If you are going to be there more than three days, buy the monthly pass for around $45. 

Good walking shoes and/or flip flop confidence are essential.  If it rains, which it tends to do, or you happen to have a few drinks, which you will tend to do, slips are very commonplace.  Both Tommy and I have had the cobblestone shaped bruises to prove it too.

Pick up a free tourist map in practically ANY establishment.  It may be a little outdated, but it will really help you get around.

DRINK------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BEST BARS
You'll have plenty to choose from, but here are our favorites:
La Taberna Lupulo, Calle San Sebastian
This hip joint boasts the best craft beer selection on the island.  Tommy worked here too! They have over 50 taps and about 120 bottles of different beers.  They also have lots of craft whiskey on hand, although some of it tastes like lighter fluid.  It does to me, at least.  The staff is super cool and they will give you tasters of different beers.  They draw both locals and tourists so you are sure to meet some interesting folks in this popular bar. 

The Mezzanine, Corner of Calle Cruz and Calle Sol (upstairs from St. Germaine Cafe)
A converted house of a deceased Puerto Rican revolutionary, this spot is really cute and almost has a San Fran vibe to it.  It's chill, stylish and has the best happy hour in town.  From 4-8pm they do half price on many awesome drinks and their tapas menu (you can get a glass of wine and a tapas plate for $8 total).  The service has always been good in my experience and the prices really can't be beat. 

Bar at the Food Court, Calle San Francisco at the top of Plaza Colon
Another bar that Tommy works at is owned by one of the nicest guys in town, our friend Ozzie, the bar at the food court boasts no-frills drinks and open air socializing opportunities.  We only come here during the day when the vibe is chill and if you ask why they have a sign that says, "Best Pina Coladas on the Island", you will be told it's because, "we put the most booze in it".  Cheap empanadas available.  Artesian Cocktails NOT available.  If you come at night, I can't really tell you what you are in for. 

El Batey, across from El Convento Hotel
This is the bar that all the bartenders come to after their shift is over and as soon as you walk in the door, you know that you will probably leave with a little street cred.  Stabbings and sheisty behavior are always kind of looming although if you don't get lippy you shouldn't have any problems.  Apparently, Benicio Del Toro loves to come here when he visits the homeland.  If you are into dive bars, this place is a MUST (and musty). Smoking is allowed inside the bar, so that may be a plus or minus for you.
Douglas Pub, Calle San Francisco
There's nothing Irish about this joint but I have always liked it.  It's dark and divey but not as intimidating as El Batey.  The first floor has a jukebox and stripper pole and the upstairs level has lots of pool tables.  The vibe changes often so sometimes it's chill, other night's you will think you are in the middle of some kind of black metal fraternity party.  Does that make any sense?  No? That's the charm.  WILD CARD! Drinks are no frills, relatively cheap and the staff is not uppity.  If you are there, look for our friend, Brian.  He'll be the guy playing Bruno Mars on the jukebox and possibly getting punched.
Best Coffee Shops

If you drink coffee, then you MUST try the Puerto Rican variety.  It's awesome.  They don't do the regular drip style here, it's pretty much all espresso and it's most commonly served "Cortado" (short shot) or "Con Leche" (latte).  If you don't drink coffee, but need to get connected to some free WiFi, check out our picks:
Cafe Poetico, Calle Cruz (near Supermax)
Not the cheapest prices in town but the quality to back it up.  The coffee here is really good and I have been blown away buy the food.  Mostly vegetarian, the food is always fresh and super tasty.  The desserts are some of the best I've ever had.  Definitely from scratch.  I may have broken my "no gluten" rule here on more than one occasion and deemed it "so totally worth it".  Don't tell the Paleo Police...The other half of the cafe houses a little gift shop and they do a weekly open mic Poetry reading.  Each table has blank paper and pencils in a little bucket.  They encourage patrons to leave their creative writing in a basket by the door.  The staff can sometimes be a little aloof but overall, very nice.  Sebastian, our favorite barista, is one of the coolest/nicest guys we've met here.  Good vibes, creative energy and charm.

Cuatro Sombras, Calle Recinte Sur
Not quite as comfy as Poetico but still cool. They are a farm-to-table joint.  This means they grow, roast and sell their own coffee produced on their own land.  Pretty cool.  

EAT---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Food is very expensive here.  Tourist prices for sure.  There are lots of restaurants to choose from but here is what we recommend:
Breakfast Spots

Breakfast is the hardest meal to find here  but these are the better places.
Cafeteria Mallorca, Calle San Francisco
If you don't feel like eating any more Puerto Rican food, you can get a cheap diner-style breakfast here.  Nothing special but kind of cool to sit and people watch.  I like their paper hats too.
St. Germaine Cafe, Corner of Calle Cruz/Calle Sol
They have a few brunch specials and one of the best breakfast menus in town that will appeal to a Californian palate.
Vegetarian
Do not expect to find many veggie options here.  You may also want to consider suspending your dietary restrictions while you are here.  If you order something like Rice & Beans, be aware that virtually ALL bean dishes will include pork.  Never assume something is Veggie and always ask!
Verde Mesa, I think this is on Calle Recinte Sur (all the way at the end)
This is supposedly one of the best restaurants in town and the menu is fresh and locally sourced/organic whenever possible.  The atmosphere is very charming and the owners are very well liked in the community.  Prices are a little on the higher end but people rave about it.  We never made it here but hope to one day.
Cheap Eats
As I mentioned, food here is super overpriced.  The best value we've found has been the $7 plate at 
Delicias Columbianas, back of the Food Court, Calle San Francisco
The meat can be a little chewy but you if you are doing things on a serious budget, this is the kind of place that you can get rice and beans to last you all day if you need to roll like that...
Mezzanine, tapas Happy Hour, corner of Cruz/Sol
Are you sick of me jocking this place yet?  As I mentioned before, the Happy Hour here serves half price tapas.  Not the best tapas you'll eat ever, but more than decent. 

Puerto Rican Food
You have to at least try it!  I think it's delicious, but can be a bit heavy.  Lots of flavor!
Cafe Puerto Rico, across from Plaza Colon
A lot of tourists come here, but so do the locals.  That's always a good sign.
Barrachina, Calle Tetuan
They claim they invented the Pina Colada but so do a few other spots.  Just as pricey as any other joint but the service is very good and the atmosphere is nice. They speak good english too.
El Jibarrito, Calle Sol
I was told by Puerto Ricans that this is one of the best places to get Puerto Rican food  but the prices are a bit high so we haven't made it in yet.
Grocery
The only real grocery store in Old San Juan sucks.  If you have a car, go to the SuperMax in Condado, about 15 minutes away.  It will be worth it, I promise, and they have an amazing/cheap deli section.  If you  have no choice though, you can get the basics at the Old San Juan location, but they'll be expensive and kind of lacking in quality:
SuperMax, Calle Cruz across from Marshalls

Buen Provecho!

SLEEP------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I kind of think the only way to go these days is vacation rentals.  Usually cheaper than a hotel and with way more amenities, you basically rent an apartment or house.  You can also cook your own food if you have dietary restrictions.  Here are some good sites to browse what's available:

www.airbnb.com
www.vrbo.com

I've also heard that this hotel is the nicest boutique hotel in the city if you'd rather get that kind of treatment:
Hotel El Convento
www.elconvento.com
This is an old convent, converted.  Some say it's haunted, but I've heard no real proof.

SALSA/DANCE-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Live Music and Dancing:
Nuyorican Cafe, in the alley off of Calle San Francisco near El Asador

DON'T BE SCURRED BUT DO BEWARE------------------------------------------------------------------------
Like I mentioned, everything here is at Tourist prices.  I just ducked into a mini-mart to buy a roll of paper towels and a single roll was $4.25.  I was pissed but they have you by the balls.  Or in my case, your figurative "Lady Balls".

If you need to do laundry, there are a few joints around town but expect to pay a minimum of $6/load.  Also, don't expect the clothes to be dry when they come out of the dryer.  You can drop all your stuff off and they will wash/dry/fold but you can easily rack up a nice bill this way.  At this point, June 2013, they charge $1.50/lb of clothes.  You can easily drop $20 this way on a large load of laundry.  Boo!
Lavanaderia Del Sol, is on Calle Sol
There is another spot on Calle San Francisco near the Food Court, don't know the name, look for the sign out front.

If you don't see prices posted on things, ask first.  Tommy ordered a Ketel One Martini at a restaurant last night that was off the menu and they charged him $16.  Yowza!

Well there you have it, my unofficial guide to Old San Juan.  Go see the forts, make some friends and take photos. Old San Juan photographs beautifully!

El Morro

So we are officially residents of Old San Juan. We are settled into our new apartment and are quickly learning the neighborhood and meeting lots of our neighbors  There are so many beautiful things about the old city. The architecture, blue cobblestone streets, fountains and sweeping vista points overlooking the ocean. But the most stunning of all for me has to be El Morro. El Morro is a 16th century citadel designed to guard the entrance to the San Juan Bay and defend the Spanish colonial port city of San Juan from seaborne enemies. Luckily for us the days of seaborne enemies are over and now El Morro serves as a national park. It is only about 4 blocks from our new apartment and I can say with confidence that it has to be one the most epic dog parks around! Like almost everywhere in Puerto Rico it is dog friendly and I can only imagine how much it blow Zorra's little mind when we go on our long walks all around the grounds. Hell, it blows my mind! The grounds are said to take up 70 acres. More than half of that consists of a giant open grass field that approaches the fort. To put that in perspective, a football field is just over 1 acre. Yesterday we went on a nice long family walk together through the grounds and around a path that follows the water and leads you back into town. I brought the GoPro with me. Here are some shots that capture just some of the epic beauty of this national treasure. For more info about the history of El Morro click here.

Cultural Observations-Part II Flowers in Hatillo

A short post today, just wanted to share some of the pretty flowers that grow around the neighborhood in Hatillo.  We'll be moved into Old San Juan before the week is over, so I'm trying to enjoy the calm charm of this family oriented neighborhood. I didn't research the names of the plants and such but hope you'll enjoy nonetheless.  For me, seeing what grows in other lands always helps me imagine the feel.  So I hope you can feel the sun, tropical breeze and sweet air that is Puerto Rico.

I see these red flowers growing on trees with deep green leaves EVERYWHERE.  They are the first flower I noticed when we got here as they grow heavily on the foliage that surrounds the highways.  

These pretty ladies grow on many of the trees in Hatillo.  

Tommy made me a little "Baby Bouquet" of the white variation with some red Pom Pom type blossoms this morning.  He's been doing this cute little thing for years.  He'll gather neighborhood wild flowers and tie them together with stems.  It's about the size of a bouquet you'd give to a Guinea Pig.   What can I say, I've always liked "the little things". I'd take a "Baby Bouquet" over a dozen long stem roses any day!

Not sure if they are the same as the purple flowers I posted above (those grow on trees and these grow on the ground), but I love these whimsical lavender blossoms that line the walking path near the beach.  This picture really captures the color of the ocean waters around this part of the island--so blue/green!  We have Atlantic and Caribbean oceans in Puerto Rico so you have the blue waters like this as well as the more turquoise waters and white sand depending on which area you are in.  Both types are very clean and clear!

Who doesn't love the gorgeousness that is the Hibiscus?  When I see these flowers I think of Red Zinger tea and lush green land.  What woman's beauty isn't enhanced by tucking one of these behind her ear?  High in Vitamin C and full of flavor, these flowers are heavily used in teas and create a "punch like" flavor.  Ever had Passion iced tea from Starbucks?  That's a Hibiscus tea blend. 

I'll update with flowers of San Juan when we get there!  

Thanks for reading.

XO,
Juni

Cultural Observations Part I- Food & Drink

I just spent the morning on the phone with the utility companies and we are about ready to move into our new place on 4/20.  Both Tommy and I are beyond excited!  By the time we move in, it will have been close to 3 months without our own pad.  We were very lucky to spend 5 weeks along the East Coast  and then have the opportunity to rent a room and stay with our friend, Rick (Big Thanks, Buddy!) but we are ready to be in a permanent spot and really get this party started.

If you haven't heard, we found a place in Old San Juan.  It's a quirky one bedroom with a small loft space up a spiral staircase.  Tommy calls it, "The Slave Chamber".   Before you go judging him on that,  you have to see the space.  It truly is the best way to describe it.  It will likely be a walk-in closet or a crash pad for non-claustrophobic overnight guests.  I thought it would be cool to make it an office but it might just be too small.  We'll feel it out once we move in.  The location is amazing and every building in Old San Juan is at least a hundred or so years old so it's very unique.  I will include photos once we get in there as I'd like to do a post about the history of the city and it's current state.

As we prepare to step into the next phase of our journey, I thought it appropriate to write my first post about general cultural observations.  I'm going to start with Food & Drink and follow-up with other posts about other elements so that this one doesn't take a week to read.
Let's dive in, shall we?

Puerto Ricans have a discerning palate and demand food quality.  They'd much rather go to a shack of a restaurant that has good food as opposed to somewhere that boasts high-end fixtures, fancy-schmancy decor and serves mediocre fare.
This is hilariously highlighted in the fast food joints.  They have many of the same places we do back on the mainland but (from what I'm told) the quality is way better.  I'm on my health kick path so I haven't had any of the fast food but I've heard from numerous sources that the KFC here and Domino's are about 17 thousand times better than the ones we are used to.  Go figure.  I'll still pass but I think it's interesting nonetheless.

Traditional Dishes
One of the most popular traditional Puerto Rican dishes is something called "Mofongo".  Mofongo is made by combining a starch source (plantains and yucca are common) with garlic, vegetables and beef, chicken or seafood.  It is all mashed together in a pilon (large wooden mortar and pestle) and often served with some kind of soupy stew/gravy.  This dish is really tasting, very filling and found in just about every restaurant on the island.  Every place boasts they have "The Best Mofongo", even the Chinese Restaurants.  It cracks me up.

Un Pilon

Mofongo con Camarrones

Arroz con Pollo (Chicken with Rice) is another popular dish that sounds simple enough but it's the kind of dish that a Puerto Rican probably grew up on and everyone has their own version.  You will be forever imprinted by your mother's Arroz con Pollo if you are a Puerto Rican.

The Creole culture has a big influence here so there is a lot of "Comida Criolla"--many variations on rice and beans and a red sauce you can order with most proteins if you want "Salsa Criolla".  The sauce is a favorite of mine with fish and is tomato based with plenty of garlic, onions and spices.

You don't have to go far to find someone selling "Pinchos"--the grilled meat kebabs I mentioned in a previous post.  These are awesome to me because they are Paleo and freaking delicious.  Most vendors sell chicken thigh but you can sometimes find pork or fish ones too.   Most are sold for around $2 a kebab, so it's not only healthy but economical.

Lechoneras (Pig Roasters) are common and there is even an entire town devoted to roasting pork called, Cayey.  The small stretch of mountain road that flows through the town is lovingly called, "The Pork Highway" and when we went you could smell it a mile away.  Literally. You order your pig by the pound and section of the pig you desire.  It's also common, at least in Cayey, for there to be an in-house band that plays dance music so you can work off some of that food after you eat! Instead of a normal caterer, we've decided to hire one of these guys to provide food at the reception when we get married.  Still no date set though, so don't worry, your invite didn't get lost in the mail. 

To my surprise, people here are not that big on spicy food.  The food has a lot of flavor but not a lot of heat.  The common condiment is called "Sofrito" which is basically a mixture of a few different types of mild peppers, onions or garlic, perhaps some vinegar and maybe tomato.  It's like a pureed salsa fresca with a little more bitterness as it's pepper based.  Every grocery store sells at least a few variations of it and you can also buy a produce pack with the ingredients.  Sofrito is a true staple in island cuisine.  

Native Fruit

Much to my Sugar Detox torment, the island bears most of my favorite fruits-guavas, papayas, mangoes, pineapple, bananas/plantains and a new favorite, Soursop (aka "guayabana").  Also called a "custard apple", this fruit has a unique taste that's hard to describe.  It is sweet with a slightly grainy (like a pear) texture that also has a creamy, custard like quality.  Some don't like it for this reason, but I really enjoy it.  The flavor is kind of a hybrid of strawberry, pineapple, coconut and banana flavors.  It's also known to have many health benefits!  What's not to love?  

Mangoes are about to come in season and I see trees branches everywhere heavily weighted with fruit.  In about a month, it is so on.

Food Availability

Grocery stores are decent and food prices are about the same as in the states.  Maybe slightly cheaper.  They are certainly not as big as what I am used to but they are definitely "Supermercados" as opposed to "Bodegas". I buy as many of the local ingredients as possible since they are the least expensive---I eat a lot of carrots, mild green peppers, cilantro and more recently Calabaza (pumpkin).  Chicken and pork are easy to come by as well.  Most sell freshly baked bread, if you are into that sort of thing. Here is a photo of our local market.  The slogan means "you are part of our family!"---a very nice thing to say to a Puerto Rican. 

Unfortunately, finding organic anything is near impossible and if you do find it, you'll pay a pretty penny.  A few days ago I found a local health food store.  To my delight, they sold Almond Butter (Yes, this is the kind of stuff that I get excited about!). It wasn't organic, but I was still super stoked...until I got to the register.  They wanted $13 for the small jar.  Ugh, not gonna happen. :(

My saving grace has been Costco where you can get a decent amount of organic meats, tinned seafood, organic veg and (cue choir of angels) almond butter that costs less than a downpayment on a home.  For the most part, I do pride myself on shopping at the smaller establishments but I really can't pass up the quality/affordability of Costco on these items.  

Oddly enough, even though Puerto Rico is known for it's world class fishing, fresh fish is very hard to come by.  Fresh oysters are nearly impossible to find but Tommy chalks that up to the fact that they have to be shipped here and chance of spoilage is high.

Get Your Drank On

I'm not much of a drinker but people here certainly enjoy their booze.  It's a bit of a disturbing phenomenon that many gas stations sell beer by the can or bottle and it's not uncommon to see people come in, buy some gas and chug a beer real quick.  Being caught with an open container in  your car is also not a huge deal--you get a ticket but that's about it.  Kind of crazy.

All negativity aside, Puerto Rico is the birthplace of two of probably the best drinks well, ever.  This is the glorious land that gave us the Pina Colada and the Mojito.  I'm hoping you know what these two drinks are.  If you don't, and you partake of alcohol, you should totally try them asap.  A little on the sweet side but such an awesome combo of flavors.  Nothing conjures  up tropical daydreams like a drink served in a coconut:

Piña colada

If I do drink, I'm a Vodka and soda water with lemon girl (you can take the girl out of la....) but when I want to be all fancy, it doesn't get much better than a refreshing Mojito.

The Bacardi Rum plant is located on the island and offers free tours.  At the end of the tour, they give you two free drinks.  Pretty sweet deal!  Bacardi is kind of like the "Budweiser of Rum" though and Tommy has grown fond of a more high-end rum called "Barrilito". He says it is really smoky.  Not sure what that means but maybe you do.  I don't remember ever seeing it on the mainland but I wasn't really looking either.

Beyond rum drinks, which locals don't seem to drink too much of anyway, most people drink beer.  The local brands are Medalla (basically Puerto Rican Bud Light) and Magna (considered just a slight step up, with a somewhat sweeter taste).  You can get either of these beers for around $2-$3 a can at any bar or around $7 for a 6-pack.

Possibly the best thing that Puerto Rico has to offer, above ALL else, is the ridiculously amazing coffee.  It is so smooth, never too acidic and has an incredible flavor---coffee snobs would describe it as "an island profile".  The rich volcanic soil and climate has made coffee one of Puerto Rico's main crops throughout the years.  For the most part, you can't get it on the mainland, so if you do come for a visit you must try it.   We buy the relatively inexpensive stuff and it's still so much better than anything I used to get in California.  My stomach turns at the thought of drinking a cup from Starbucks.  I try to limit my consumption to one large cup in the morning and must admit that sometimes I go to bed excited that I can wake up and have another.  Most people drink it "Cafe Con Leche" style but I drink it with a little bit of unsweetened coconut milk or if in a cafe, I go "Americano".  How fitting.  I am literally fighting the urge to go get another cup from the kitchen now. 

I did it.  I couldn't resist.  It was worth it.

My Coconut Rant

The only thing that runs neck and neck with my love for PR coffee, is probably my love for all things coconut.  Coconut water, coconut milk, toasted coconut flakes, coconut curry, coconut pudding---I'm like Bubba from Forrest Gump.  I cannot get enough!

Being gluten-free, I've also become fond of Coconut Flour (the only flour substitute that I like).  Moving here I figured I'd be able to get all this stuff for a fraction of the price I paid in California and that it would be everywhere.  Hooray!

Unfortunately, I was met with another reality.  I cannot for the life of me find a coconut milk that doesn't have preservatives.   I started making my own, which was relatively easy and super tasty but the process is kind of time consuming and annoying in other ways.  Time isn't really an issue for me right this second but I kept accidentally grating my fingers with the veggie peeler when trying to get the meat free from the shell rind.  There is one brand that only has one preservative so I've bought that recently and don't seem to be having any digestive issues.  Unsweetened coconut flakes or Coconut Cream concentrate are two things I haven't found either.  Everything has sugar added!  Boo.  Have not found anywhere that sells coconut flour either.  I did find a tutorial online for how to make it myself but then just ordered it off of Amazon for under $10.  

A pretty common roadside site is this:

so coconut water is probably the easiest thing to find on my list of wants.  Everyone advertises "Coco Bien Frio" or "Very Cold Coconuts!" but it seems the more they promise, the more room temperature the coconut water.  I'm just happy when I have it, but it really is so much better well chilled.  If you try to buy it at the store and want something without added sugars,  you are going to pay a lot.  A carton I could get at Trader Joe's back in CA for $1.99 goes for about $6 here.  I don't get it.  

Is this some kind of Cocospiracy?! ARGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay, maybe that second cup of coffee was a bad idea....

Puerto Rican cuisine is rich in flavor and delivers stick-to-your-ribs sustenance with a Caribbean flair.  Mind you, I didn't even get to the desserts as I didn't want to put myself through the torture---still on the Sugar Detox!  If you aren't detoxing---click on this link to check out "Tembleque" or this youtube video for "Coconut Pineapple Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce a.k.a. Budin".  Ay Dios Mio!  I hope you will have the chance to try some of the delights I've highlighted here or any of the other unique dishes the island has to offer.   Before moving here, I'd really never eaten much Puerto Rican food but I know now I'll be a forever fan.

Buen Provecho!

xo, Juni